Keywords: l1d l2d
Description: This powerful flashlight sports a Cree XLamp 7090-XR module. Cree XLamp 7090-XR modules are the newest LED technology and have the highest efficiency (lumens per watt) of all LED modules currently
This powerful flashlight sports a Cree XLamp 7090-XR module. Cree XLamp 7090-XR modules are the newest LED technology and have the highest efficiency (lumens per watt) of all LED modules currently on the market, beating out even the latest generation Luxeons by a comfortable margin. Because of its.
This powerful flashlight sports a Cree XLamp 7090-XR module. Cree XLamp 7090-XR modules are the newest LED technology and have the highest efficiency (lumens per watt) of all LED modules currently on the market, beating out even the latest generation Luxeons by a comfortable margin.
Because of its high drain nature, this type of flashlight functions better with NiMH or lithium batteries than with regular alkaline batteries. I will probably put some low self discharge(Rayovac Hybrid or Sanyo Eneloop) NiMH batteries in it. For car use, I prefer the 2 AA size because it is much easier to hold than the puny 1 AA size and the batteries last longer and it's brighter than the 1 AA version to boot.
Take the battery life specs with a huge grain of salt as the stated battery life at different settings are grossly optimistic. There is a HUGE variance between the specs and objective battery life test results reported on a well known flashlight review site. At the 135 lumen Turbo mode, the specs state the batteries last for 2.4 hrs. but actual 3rd-party tests show that alkalines last only 41 minutes and 2650mAH NiMH batteries last only 1 Hr. 50 minutes. At the 80 lumen level, the spec says 4 hrs. but tests show 1 Hr. 41 min. with alkalines and 4 hr. 51 mins. with 2650mAH NiMH batteries. Keep in mind that the 3-rd party test results are based on measurement when the output falls to 50% of the starting output, but the battery life drops off like a rock after the 50% mark, especially with NiMH batteries, so the 50% mark is a good measure of practical battery life.
At 6" long, it's about the same length as a 2-AA Mag-lite, only it's slightly thinner than the Mag-lite, especially in the head area. I'd rate it as only dunkable. The o-ring seals are not tight enough for it to be diveable.
Like many fixed focus LED flashlights, this light has a rather wide beam. This means the beam radiates out from the light source at a somewhat large angle. This makes it an ideal light for close range use, but it doesn't work that well as a long range spotlight because the throw isn't all that great. Even at the turbo setting with its very large 135 lumens, the beam is so wide and so diffuse beyond 20 feet (think of it as a very bright floodlight) that it's essentially useless beyond 50 ft. to 60 ft. This is not a design flaw of the light. It's just a design philosophy of Fenix that it favors a beam with a broader angle for close range use. A narrow spot beam doesn't give good coverage for objects up close, plus a tight spot beam will be far too blindingly bright up close. Fixed focus lights always involve some compromise. In terms of my personal use, more than 99% of the objects I ever illuminate with a flashlight are well within the 50 feet range, so to me a broad beam pattern definitely is more useful than a tight spot beam.
Its lowest setting at 9 lumens has about the same brightness and intensity as a 2AA Maglite with a xenon bulb. Combined with the broad beam, the lowest setting gives the perfect light source for map reading inside a car without interfering with your night vision. And when you need a brighter beam, just gently push the tail button once or twice to toggle to the higher intermediate settings, or twist the front cap to switch to the turbo mode. The SOS mode is kind of a nuisance, but you can quickly bypass it.
The instruction doesn't show the owner how to properly attach the lanyard. The tailcap has two holes and the lanyard has to thread through both holes using a paper clip in order for the lanyard to function correctly. If the lanyard is only threaded through one hole, the flashlight won't stand firmly on its end. The notch in the endcap is not needed if the lanyard is fastened correctly. To do this, thread the lanyard through one hole starting from the outside. Then thread it back out the other hole starting from the inside. Then pass the hand strap through the tiny loop of the string. Once it's done this way, you'll see you don't need the notch. The notch is only needed if you threaded the first hole starting from the inside out, which you shouldn't have done.
I'm not sure what the previous reviewer's complaint about the holster is all about. The back of the holster is made with a double ply webbing. There is an opening between the two plies for the belt to slip through to form a secure attachment without requiring the owner to buy anything extra. An alternative method of attaching the holster to the belt is to buy a cheap carabiner or keyring and attach it to the plastic ring on the holster and then hook the carabiner or keyring to the belt or backpack or something.
Lastly the sales literature's reference to "6 output levels" is marketing fluff. It's actually only 4 output levels, i.e. 9, 40, 80, and 135 lumens, along with two additional output modes besides the steady mode. The strobe mode is at the 135 lumens level and the SOS mode is at the 80 lumens level.