Peugeot 106 Diesel

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Keywords: Peugeot 106 Diesel, peugeot 106 citroen ax diesel

Description: I wrote a guide about these cars many years ago on ebay and, with the latest austerity measures about to kick us all in the teeth, I am sure many budding first-time drivers and owners of existing larger...

I wrote a guide about these cars many years ago on ebay and, with the latest austerity measures about to kick us all in the teeth, I am sure many budding first-time drivers and owners of existing larger diesels may wish to down-size or start with a car that, for a good example, will give outstanding returns on what you will get one for. Sure, these cars are getting old now, and have their problems at higher mileage, but to be honest in my experience similarly-aged Fiesta, Nova, Corsa, and misc. other stuff struggle to compete as an all-round packag at this end of the market.

I have owned a total of 7 of these cars in my driving career, several of which have been bought on ebay, 4 of which have been diesel Both cars share very similar designs and, body panels and trim apart, almost everything else is interchangeable to a certain degree.

The Citroen should prove to be the cheaper of the two as it is an older version of the platform and is less safe and resistant to wear and tear. That being said you may find that the insurance premium is slightly higher as a result of the low safety standards.

Firstly, avoid 1.4 diesels. You will recognise these under the bonnet by the big plastic box for the air filter at the top of the engine bay near the windscreen which has T.U. DIESEL printed on it. The coolant reservoir will also be integrated with the radiator at the very front of the car, and the glow plugs will press diagonally into the engine. It is a very fragile eninge, breaking head gaskets when under heavy load, or if pushed hard when cold. It will not be cheap to replace, and if it is not done by the dealer, an inferior gasket may be fitted which will not last long!!

The 1.5 diesel is a superb engine in either Pug or Citroen form. Expect 58mpg on driving up to 70mph, not much less around town. Eco-style 55mph driving will net 60+ mpg on a good engine. In 3rd gear the engine should rev cleanly and pull hard up to 60mph without smoke, so try this out if you can. Try to avoid low-spec models without the rev counter or coolant guage. As with all diesels just make sure that the coolant had no leaks, and that the radiator fan works. Ask for this to be demonstrated when picking up the car. If it doesn't work then the engine will blow its head gasket when overheating, and again is not economical to replace. This engine looks very similar to the 1.4, except the glow plugs and injectors have swapped postions, and the peugeot or citroen logo should be visible on the cam cover of the engine. The air filter is on the right hand side of the engine as you look at it, and the plastic inlet tracts lead down the back of the engine. Check that all of this pipework has no visible signs of fretting; this implies a care-worn existance, and you should probably walk away.

The 1.5 has one design flaw. oil can leak from the head near the coolant expansion tank (front left corner); there is a large square shaped oil galley here, and although internal leaking into the water is rare, it will not be economical to fix. Head Gasket work on any Pug/Citroen diesel engine is not for the home mechanic - tappets and rockers have to be set up recisely and there is no way for the home mechanic to check other than running the engine when it is put back together. So, if oil leaks are evident down the side of the block, off the sump or on the current owners driveway and weren't mentioned in the ad, WALK.

Beyond this, the other main mechanical parts to inspect are the CV gaiters/rubber CV boots and the condition of the wheel bearings and driveshafts. This must be done whilst driving the vehicle, and so listen out for noises when cornering etc. Worn CV boots are a probable sign that the driving gear will need replacing.

Peugeot and Citroen are known for having variations in certain parts, even for the same model car, so watch out for the biggest variation - 3-stud wheel patterns, as opposed to the normal 4-stud. Unfortunately most of these cars sit on this flimsy set-up, and driveshafts, steering ball-joints and wheel bearings tend to need replacement at 120-140k or so. It is possible to remove the 3-stud wheels, brake discs, hubs and driveshafts and covnert the car to the 4-stud versions, which are more solid. Ironically the 3-stud stuff is fine for the 1.4D as the engine is alloy and much lighter than the cast-iron 1.5.

The brakes are likely to show signs of minimal maintenance, so check for this on the front discs and the handbrake (go underneath and check the inside of the discs for scoring etc.). At the rear, make sure that there are no fluid leaks from the wheels as the hydraulic cylinders can go on these too. At the same time check the condition of the rear shocks.

Check the gearbox when hot for gear selection problems, as the forks can go; this is not very expensive to fix, but the clutch will be. Check around the join between the gearbox and the engine block for what looks like grey shreds of cloth; if any are there, WALK.

The interior is easily damaged, but at this end of the market you've gotta expect some wer, especially in the Citroen. Go cold if the seat wobble or do not adjust though, and demand replacement before accepting, as it will fail the MOT and is not a cheap fix. Check the stereo for bodged wiring, and the FUSE BOX for BURNS.

On the whole then, these are the things that an honest advert should state to you. If any of what I have listed is found on the car and was not listed have no hesitation in walking away.

And, if you cannot find a decent diesel, go for the 1.4 petrol; it's a very fun drive and can get up to 51mpg if driven sensibly.

Oh, and the Haynes manual for this car - it is not very detailed if you are truly insane and want to carry out any of the heavy repairs I have advised t walk from here!

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